Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile

Numerical computation of infragravity wave Dynamics and velocity profiles using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model

Revista : 32nd International Conference in Coastal Engineering ICCE 2010
Tipo de publicación : Conferencia No DCC


We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity profiles in the shoaling and surf zones of a very mild slope beach. We analyze low frequency wave generation mechanisms and dynamics along the beach and examine in detail the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq- type model SERR1D (Cienfuegos et al., 2010) to reproduce the complex dynamics of high frequency wave propagation and energy transfer mechanisms that enhance infragravity wave generation in the laboratory.