Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile
BARRED-BEACH MORPHOLOGICAL CONTROL ON INFRAGRAVITY MOTION. Almar, R., Cienfuegos, R., Gonzalez, E., Catalán, P., Michallet, H., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., & Suarez, L. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), currents.24. doi:10.9753/icce.v33.currents.24 (2012)

Barred-beach morphological control on infragravity motions

Revista : 34th International Conference in Coastal Engineering ICCE 2012
Tipo de publicación : Conferencia No DCC Ir a publicación


A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. Interestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. Variations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. These changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. Our conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.