Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile
Cienfuegos R., Barthélemy E. and Bonneton P. (2010)

Wave-breaking model for boussinesq-type equations including roller effects in the mass conservation equation. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000022

Revista : Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-ASCE
Volumen : 136
Número : 1
Páginas : 10-26
Tipo de publicación : ISI Ir a publicación


We investigate the ability of a 1D fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness. An alternative approach for wave-breaking parameterization including roller effects through diffusive-type terms on both, the mass conservation and momentum equations is developed and validated on regular wave and solitary wave experiments as an attempt to improve wave height and left-right asymmetry estimates. The new approach is able to reproduce wave height decay, and intraphase nonlinear properties within the entire surf zone of spilling breakers without requiring temporal evolution of model parameters.